How to Paddle the Glasgow to Edinburgh Canoe Trail

The Glasgow to Edinburgh Canoe Trail stretches about 54 miles between Scotland’s two largest cities, along the Forth & Clyde and Union Canals. Historically, they served as inland waterways to transport goods between the country’s east and west coasts. Today, they’re mainly used for recreation. 

It would be an understatement to say that this trail is a hidden gem of paddling in the United Kingdom. When I kayaked it with my friend Corey in the spring, we couldn’t stop marveling at how beautiful the scenery was and how few other paddlers we had to share it with. For the most part, we saw birds, grazing sheep and cows, and runners and cyclists zipping down the sidewalk along the canal.

Because the Glasgow to Edinburgh Canoe Trail is an urban waterway, there are quite a few towns to stop along the trail for a warm bed, hot shower, and fresh meal. This means you can pack ultralight—just your Oru kayak, wool baselayers and waterproof outerwear, a headlamp, some snacks, and maybe a camera and a good book. 

The trail is also extremely accessible by public transportation. Corey and I brought our Oru kayaks on the train to and from London and walked from the canal to our hotels every afternoon—no need for a car.

The guide here is just a suggestion for one way to break up the journey. If you’re an experienced kayaker and you paddle quickly, you may want to do the trip in two or three days instead of four. Likewise, if you’re looking for a leisurely journey with plenty of downtime to explore small, historic towns along the way, I’d recommend adding an extra day. 

Day 0: Overnight in Glasgow

Corey and I started our journey in London, where we took the train north to Glasgow from King’s Cross. We were able to finagle our boats to fit in the luggage racks of the train, but I recommend calling in advance to book space in the bike zone, which makes for a much easier journey. 

Before you set off, don’t forget to register your trip with the Scottish Canals Trust, so they can contact you in the event of an emergency paddlers need to be aware of. 

Stay: The easyHotel Glasgow City Centre is just over half a mile from both Glasgow Central Station and Glasgow Queen Station. It’s about .8 miles from Spiers Wharf, where you’ll put in your boat tomorrow.

Day 1: Glasgow to Kirkintilloch, approx 9 miles

Start slow and easy on the first day and take the time for a hearty breakfast before leaving town. Walk to Spiers Wharf, where you can set up your boat alongside the canal and launch from a handy dock. 

You’ll soon paddle through the Claypits Nature Reserve, which is where the clay lining the canals was dug over 200 years ago. Today, it’s Glasgow’s only inner-city nature reserve. You’ll still feel like you’re in the city for the first few miles, but soon you’ll be in the countryside with mountain views to your left.

From here on out, the canal is serene all the way to Kirkintilloch, where many of Britain’s iconic red telephone boxes were once manufactured. 

Once you see Kirkintilloch’s church spire, start watching for your takeout. There is a small dock on the right hand side as you paddle east into the town, below the Nonna’s Kitchen restaurant (a great spot for lunch, dinner, or a celebratory Scottish whiskey), which you can see from the canal. 

Stay: The Broadcroft Hotel is just a few minutes’ walk from the canal—about a tenth of a mile. It offers a hearty breakfast and a robust dinner menu. If you make it early enough, you can treat yourself to afternoon tea. 

Day 2: Kirkintilloch to Falkirk, approx. 14 miles

Today’s goal is the town of Falkirk, home to the world’s only rotating boat lift. Think of the Falkirk Wheel like a Ferris wheel for boats, with two boat-sized bathtubs that scoop up watercraft from a basin on the Forth & Clyde and transfer them to the Union Canal above. Once, boats spent an entire day navigating the locks connecting these two canals. Now, they can do it in a matter of minutes. 

There are four locks between Kirkintilloch and the Falkirk Wheel, and you’ll need to portage for each of them. The banks of the canal in these areas are grassy and soft and make for a great spot to stop for a break. The Wheel is also a worthwhile stop, and not just because it’s an engineering marvel. The visitor center has a gift shop and cafe where you can get a bite to eat just steps from the canal, plus the center offers recreational activities like archery and mini golf (if your arms aren’t too tired, of course). 

You can paddle straight into Falkirk on the Forth & Clyde, but you’ll hit a stretch of 7 locks shortly after you pass the Wheel. I recommend packing up your boat when you hit the first one and walking the rest of the way to your bed for the night. It’s just over half a mile from Lock 16 to the Premier Inn.

Detour: If you have an extra 5 miles in you, paddle out to the Kelpies and back on the Forth & Clyde Canal before you transfer to the Union. Or, rent e-bikes from Forth Bike, which has a few docking stations around town, and cycle the journey to give your arms a break.The Kelpies are the world’s largest equine sculptures, and they’re a sight to see. At 100 feet tall, they’re visible from miles away. 

Stay: The Premier Inn Falkirk Central Hotel is a short walk from the canal and is budget-friendly. The onsite restaurant, the Rosebank Beefeater, offers meal deals for overnight guests and a hearty breakfast. 

Day 3: Falkirk to Linlithgow, approx. 11 miles

Generally, paddlers portage a little over half a mile around the Falkirk Wheel and through Roughcastle Tunnel, to launch above Lock 2. However, if you call well in advance of your trip, you may be able to book a spot on the wheel to transfer to the Union Canal. Corey and I were lucky enough to get to ride the Wheel, and it was a pretty cool experience. When else can you ride through the air without leaving your boat?

Not long after transferring to the Union Canal, you’ll pass through the Falkirk Tunnel, which is over 2,000 feet long. It’s well lit these days but you’ll need a headlamp anyway to make sure you’re visible to oncoming boats—it’s a narrow tunnel.

About 6 miles from the tunnel, you’ll come across Bridge 49 Cafe Bar & Bistro, which is right on the canal. It’s a great spot to take a bathroom break and have a homemade sandwich and a hot cup of tea (and maybe also some dessert). 

Just past the cafe, you’ll paddle over the Avon Aqueduct. This 810-foot stone masterpiece carries the Union Canal 86 feet above the River Avon. It’s worth taking a pause here to marvel at the prospect of paddling so high above another waterway.

From there, it’s just a couple more miles to the takeout in Linlithgow, which will be home for the evening. As you get closer, you’ll spot signs for the Linlithgow Union Canal Society tea room, a great place to learn a bit of history about the canal. 

Once you’ve packed up your boat for the night, take a wander over to Linlithgow Palace, on the edge of a loch also named after the town. The scenic grounds are a great place for a picnic or a morning run if you need to stretch your legs. The town has plenty of cafes and restaurants and a large Tesco grocery store to supply your snacks for the following day.

Stay: The Star & Garter Hotel in Linlithgow is about a 5-minute walk from the canal. Take out your boat right in front of the Linlithgow Union Canal Society, before you go under the bridge. Cross over the canal via the bridge to get to the hotel. 

Day 4: Linlithgow to Edinburgh, approx. 21 miles

Note: This is a long day of paddling and you may prefer to split it into two. If so, the Oatridge Hotel in Broxburn is about a mile from the canal. Broxburn is, very roughly, 7 miles from Linlithgow and 12.5 from Edinburgh.

There’s a lot to keep you paddling on your final stretch. Edinburgh is a magnificent city, with an imposing castle rising above the city center and no shortage of historic pubs, world-class dining, and pretty city parks. It’s a great place to spend a few days using your legs to wander the city and the mountains on foot before heading home. 

Between Linlithgow and Edinburgh, you’ll be treated to calming country views and a few good spots to take a break and have a bite. If you have time to spare, the canalside Edinburgh International Climbing Arena in Ratho is Europe’s biggest indoor climbing gym. Just beyond it, the Bridge Inn is a pub with a full dinner menu (and beds, if you want to overnight here).

The scenery will grow more urban from this point out as you get into the outskirts of Edinburgh and then towards the heart of the city. Take out at the Leamington Lift Bridge, pack up your boat, and get ready to celebrate the end of your journey with a walk through Edinburgh’s charming Old Town.

Stay: Quite a few inns and hostels are just a short walk away from your take out point. The Balmore Guest House offers budget-friendly rooms less than a quarter mile from the bridge.